Beachside dining is synonymous with, well, seafood. And Cape Town’s coasts are packed with some of the best. But this is South Africa and you can bet your bottom dollar that the people of Mzansi will walk off the beach and be in the mood for some shisa nyama. Not just any shisa nyama, though — the Camps Bay version.
Bovine Wine & Grill House delivers the quality that’s demanded by Camps Bay’s reputation without the pretentious rah that’s sometimes affiliated with the iconic strip. In essence, it’s a gorgeous eatery serving up great steak and a great vibe.
The interior is moody with a bit of funk. It’s all dark leather and whisky with pops of graffiti and the ocean as a backdrop. Bovine is the brainchild of Steve Maresch, Gregor Bremer and Roy Ingle: just three friends who love good people and great food. Together, they have created a space to celebrate both.
Considering the grandeur of the space and the location in itself, Bovine bleeds a family atmosphere — a rare balance achieved with excellent dishes and service. Speaking of rare, let’s get meaty.
The menu celebrates the finest local, seasonal ingredients on offer, and all work together to serve the hero: steak. Whether it’s a 1kg T-bone, classic ribeye or harder to come by cuts like wagyu or picanha, all dishes honour the meat.
When chef Pete Goffe-Wood and chef Guyllaume Kabonga are in the kitchen, you know you’re in for a treat — and these two culinary diamonds deliver nothing short of excellence at Bovine, time and time again. The menu is a meat-lovers delight but also includes sensational fish, chicken and veg options.
Part of the Bovine experience is having a platter of cuts delivered to your table before ordering. One of the expert waitrons will take you through the lineup, from fillet to the finale. You’ll be educated on the cut, taste and preparation of your selection — an ode to ethical farming, expert butchery and a seriously delicious meal to come.
The T-bone is a feast for the eyes and tastebuds. It provides umami goodness from torched fat on the short lion and melts in the mouth tenderness from the filet mignon, separated by the flavour-giving bone (which you will pick up with your hands and gnaw at when you’re done — it’s that delicious). Call it the Hanna Montana of steaks; you get The Best of Both Worlds.
Part of the T-bone allure is that it’s crowned with a roasted bone packed with marrow; the caviar of beef. Scoop it out and spread it like butter on the meat.
Something different to try is the picanha. It’s not on every steak house menu, but we’ll be back at Bovine for more. It’s similar to a rump but much more tender and packed with flavour. Order it medium-rare with the pepper-brandy sauce. Thank us later.
Lap up the remnants of sauce with Bovine’s epic maize chips (think crispy pap sticks). If you’re wanting to keep things light, the side salad is anything but an afterthought. In fact, everything at this eatery has a place and a purpose. Nothing is for decoration, not even the leftover bones from your meal. If you’re lucky, Steve will pop past your table and offer a shot of whisky to be slurped straight from the bone that once carried your marrow-butter.
The restaurant places an equal emphasis on wine as it does its steaks. Red meat and red wine? Say less. The Iona Mr P Pinot Nior 2021 is easy-drinking, perhaps too easy. It’s the perfect blend to enjoy the seaside and serves as a great representation of Bovine: full-bodied and fresh. There are some great cocktails on the drinks menu, too.
It’s almost the rule of thumb to order a dessert when eating at a grill house. And Bovine nails the classics, from starters to crème brûlée. The grappa infused panna cotta served with strawberries is its new-age treat that reminds us to never skip on the sweet stuff.
It’s difficult to find a meal that matches (never mind trumps) the good stuff that comes off a South African braai at home. But trust us, the steaks are high at Bovine in Camps Bay.
- Website: bovinegrillhouse.com
- Contact: [email protected] / +27 (0)63 712 6310
- Location: Shop 1, The Promenade Shopping Centre, Camps Bay
Also read:
Beach House restaurant in Camps Bay is the iconic location’s latest pearl
Picture: Cape {town} Etc
