A centuries-old Paarl landmark has entered a new chapter, with one of South Africa’s most acclaimed chefs returning to his roots to launch a restaurant where fire takes centre stage, Cape {town}Etc reports.
Nestled inside the restored cellar of Zomerlust Boutique Hotel, SMEUL has officially opened its doors, bringing a fresh dining experience to the Boland while paying tribute to the property’s more than 200-year history.
The launch, highlighted in a recent media release from Zomerlust Boutique Hotel, sees acclaimed chef Kevin Grobler stepping into what may be his most personal culinary venture yet.
For the Paarl-born chef, the restaurant represents both a homecoming and an opportunity to showcase a style of cooking that strips food back to its elemental beginnings.
A historic setting reimagined
Visitors arriving at Zomerlust will find a heritage property that balances old-world charm with contemporary luxury. Dating back to 1792, the building has undergone an extensive restoration, with original architectural details carefully preserved while introducing modern design touches throughout the boutique hotel.
What began as a property project for owners Wikus Lategan and Wayne Williams evolved into something far more ambitious.
‘Collaborating with a culinary expert of Kevin’s calibre was a natural extension of our deep-rooted passion for food, and from our very first meeting, our intentions aligned,’ said Williams.
The result is a destination where hospitality, architecture and food intersect under one roof.
Cooking with flame, no shortcuts
At the heart of SMEUL is a kitchen powered entirely by open fire and wood-fired Dover stoves.
It’s a deliberate choice that connects the restaurant to the building’s past while creating a distinctive dining experience in the present.
Exposed clay brick walls, crisp table settings and theatrical tableside moments provide a backdrop for dishes shaped by smoke, heat and careful timing.
For Grobler, whose career includes leadership roles at Michelin-starred Restaurant JAN in France, Delaire Graff and award-winning SCAPE, the approach is about more than technique.
‘I’ve cooked on everything, and I keep coming back to fire,’ he highlighted.
‘It demands your full attention. When you cook over flame, you are reading and balancing heat, smoke, and timing all at once. There is nothing between you and the ingredients, and that intimacy is exactly where I want to be.’
Picture: Supplied
The menu reflects Grobler’s philosophy of refined simplicity.
Guests can expect dishes that blend local ingredients with global influences, from flash-cured linefish and carpaccio starters to hearty mains such as char siu pork belly and a substantial beef assiette cooked over open flames.
Seasonal produce also receives considerable attention. Rather than serving as supporting elements, vegetables feature prominently throughout the menu, reflecting a broader shift within South Africa’s fine-dining landscape towards ingredient-led cooking.
Desserts continue the narrative, showcasing the chef’s well-known affinity for citrus flavours and seasonal ingredients.
To enhance the personalised experience, diners are encouraged to bring a special bottle from their own wine collections, with complimentary corkage offered on the first bottle.
The restaurant also features a private dining space for intimate gatherings and celebrations.
While SMEUL may be built around ancient cooking methods, its arrival signals something distinctly modern: a growing appetite for immersive dining experiences that connect food, place and story.
And in a cellar where meals would have been prepared over fire centuries ago, those flames are burning once again.
Planning a visit?
SMEUL Restaurant
Zomerlust Boutique Hotel, 193 Main Road, Hoog-en-Droog, Paarl
Opening hours
Lunch: 12pm–2pm (last seating)
Dinner: 5pm–8pm (last seating)
Reservations available via Zomerlust Boutique Hotel and Dineplan.
Be the first to know – Join our WhatsApp Channel for content worth tapping into! Click here to join!
Also read:
Picture: Supplied
