Kate Walker finds out how vines are intertwined with the deep-seated ties that bind the Beaumont family to the land, cultivating a legacy of passion and originality.
Sebastian Beaumont has an intuitive understanding of the land he farms. As he should. He was born here and grew up romping through its vineyards with his brother Lucien and sister Ariane. Now he and his wife, Nici, are guiding the farm into a new era of winemaking, but not without paying respect to where it all began.
Jayne and the late Raoul Beaumont bought the property in 1974, when it was still Companjes Drift, a former supply farm set up by the Dutch East India Company in the 18th century.
In 1806, the trading company handed the title deed over to Dutch soldier Servaas Daniel de Kock for his efforts against the British in the Battle of Blouberg. He planted vines, wheat, fruit trees and tumeric, which was in high demand from the Cape’s Malay community.
When the Beaumonts took over, they set to work by replanting the vineyards. Guts, tenacity, Raoul’s spirit of rebellion and Jayne’s experience in winemaking showed up in the couple’s first batch of wine – a pinotage labelled with her own artwork.
It was only later, in 1994, that the pinotage was first produced under the family name and crest that have graced every bottle since. The name change was a pivotal moment in the evolution of the business – this and Sebastian, their eldest son.
In 1999, armed with a degree in viticulture and oenology, Sebastian returned to the farm and got stuck into the growing, cultivating and harvesting of the vines alongside Raoul. He also honed his winemaking skills in the cellar with the help of Jayne and winemaker Niels Verburg, now owner of Luddite Wines.
It only took five years before the student became the master, even earning himself a reputation as The Chenin Dude after receiving four five-star ratings for his acclaimed chenin, Hope Marguerite.
Sebastian and his team are connoisseurs of their piece of land, with over 48 years of living side by side with it. Its terroir, its challenges, its surprises, and its quirks are second nature to them. Its singular personality, for lack of a better word, defines what ends up in the bottle.
‘The way the wind blows, the way the soils are hard and quite arid, the deep understanding of each site on the farm and the influence of the sea on our microclimate.’ This is what makes a wine uniquely Beaumont, says Sebastian.
His minimal intervention approach allows the grapes space to do their thing so that what goes in the glass is a true reflection of where it came from. He blends old cellar techniques alongside modern winemaking skills with the aim of creating limited batches of specialised wines that brim with character.
But it’s not all nature – even the mighty oak needs pruning. There are other elements that define Beaumont wine. Grit, for example.
‘I think it also has to do with the passion we have for our business and our dedication towards producing the best wines possible. The relatively rare fact that we survive from our wine business. We don’t have investors or partners that keep the business going. What we grow and what we make are what we have to keep the ball rolling. Something you see less and less of in the world of wine.’
Sebastian argues that choosing his favourite wine is like choosing his favourite child – impossible. But (gun to his head), he goes with the Hope Marguerite 2011 vintage.
Not only because of the outstanding ageability of the wine, but also because there was ‘something about it that made it sing in complete harmony.’
Whether it was on the farm or in the cellar, its alchemy captured something good. ‘I can’t explain the tech details as to why but that is the beauty of wine and how it can magically just come together, mostly as a result of nature!’
Now, as summer’s warmth begins to wane, the air carries a crispness that whispers of impending transformation. In the vineyard, the rhythm of life slows as the vines surrender their bountiful summer fruits and prepare for a season of rest.
He says autumn is one of his favourite times of the year at Beaumont. ‘Nights are cooler. There’s a bit of dew on the lawns in the morning. The sun rises with less heat and seems to start sliding up above the horizon.’
With each passing season, a farmer’s love for his earth deepens, and this one knows every face of his land at every age. Its nuances are rooted in his conscience.
‘We are a morning farm facing east and I am a morning person. I love driving up the Houw Hoek Pass behind us and looking back down on the Bot River Valley when autumn brings some mist in off the sea. Colours start changing and the surrounding wheat farmers start prepping the lands for the wheat and canola sowing in April.’
With the approaching cooler weather, you’ll find Sebastian reaching for the Dangerfield Syrah 2022 – a new vintage release that is full of ‘crunchy, chalky tannins with lots of fruit and spice, perfect for this time of year.’ He suggests pairing it with the Lamb Shawarma served at the farm deli for a real party on the palate.
Pears, delicious Bingo and Sundowner apples, olives, pomegranates, and ‘the best almonds in the world (100% organic)’ are also grown here. While the almond title may be brazen bias, not up for dispute are the beautiful vegetable gardens that supply the onsite restaurant with farm-fresh produce.
In partnership with long-time friend Jen Pearson, Nici Beaumont heads up the eatery, Zest Deli and Kitchen. They’ve been in business together for 20 years since they started Zest Catering in 2004.
The restaurant embodies their fervent commitment to making simple yet memorable dishes, with a focus on ingredients harvested from the farm and ethical sourcing practices.
Lunch and brunch are served beneath the oak canopy of the terrace and garden, the deli’s stoep, or inside.
The indoor space sums up rustic elegance with whitewashed walls, family pictures, quaint tiling and open shelves packed with feast-worthy fair, from homemade granola and rusks to fresh bread and eggs.
Jen and Nici have also launched their Made at Home prepared-meal range, available in the deli, for guests to take a taste of the farm home with them.
Open from Monday to Sunday, the deli offers wholehearted country kitchen food. For brunch, the coffee machine is fired up, pancakes are flipping, eggs are cracking and pastry is baking.
When lunch rolls around, guests can enjoy what the farm is stocking. Loaded salads, noodle bowls, potato and fillet fry-ups, farm platters and baked dishes bursting with the garden’s bounty. (Monday – Friday, 9am – 4:30pm and Saturday – Sunday, 10am – 3pm)
If we’re talking culture, language is the golden thread, but in the sprawling vineyard, the essence of a wine farm unfurls through its wines.
To truly make acquaintance with Beaumont, we need to drink from its cellar, where the history and passion of the winemakers are bottled up.
The tasting room, adjacent to the deli, offers the farm’s full range of wine, a tour through the cellar to better understand the story behind each vintage, cellar door specials and limited release batches.
But it’s not all drinking and eating. The Beaumonts welcome visitors to delve deeper into their natural habitat.
Hiking trails meander through the mountain, inviting exploration, and optional guided tours offer insights into the local flora and fauna, revealing the farm’s connection to the Groenlandberg Conservancy and its conservation endeavours.
Birding enthusiasts can delight in diverse species, armed with binoculars to spy on the feathered inhabitants of the farm and the greater Kogelberg Biosphere area – there’s quite a list to tick off.
Cyclists are encouraged to tackle the farm’s newly constructed mountain bike trails, graded for different skill levels, and connect with neighbouring routes for extended rides.
For a journey through history, guided walks unveil the farm’s past, weaving through the cellar, past the 250-year-old Vitruvian water mill and down to the original Bot River bridge. Self-guided tours are also available, with maps at the tasting room for independent exploration.
And what would a country retreat be without a spot of fishing? Guests staying in the cottages have the opportunity to fish in stocked dams for bass and trout, with arrangements made in advance for fishing rods.
While tackling the farm’s lengthy To Do List, guests can find a tranquil getaway awaiting their stay. The farm’s three accommodation options are equally charming and come with fully equipped kitchens, braai facilities, wood-burning heaters and thoughtful amenities, promising a tranquil escape into the heart of the Overberg.
Pepper Tree Cottage is a cosy terracotta-tiled haven for two, while The Mill House, accommodating four, is a restored heritage building with a raised stoep overlooking the vines. For larger groups, The Stables welcomes six to seven guests, providing ample space and comfort.
Pepper Tree Cottage | Sleeps 2 | R1900 pn
The Mill House | Sleeps 4 | R2950 pn
The Stables | Sleeps 6 to 7 | R4000 pn
Beyond the farm’s borders, the charming town of Bot River greets visitors with countryside hospitality and more wine from a small but exciting bunch of farms dotted around the valley.
The Beaumonts also have their favourite haunts. These are their recommendations.
The Beaumont’s Bot River guide
Manny’s Kitchen, across the street, is considered the town’s very own taste of Portugual. It’s said to have the best prawns and espetada this side of Madeira.
- Location: 15 Hoof Way, Bot River
- Contact: 028 284 9777
- Online: mannyskitchen.co.za
- Times: Tuesday – Saturday, 11am – 9pm
The Bot River Hotel is apparently ‘always open’ and buzzing with locals who gather on its stoep for an evening drink or the popular pub grub.
- Location: Bot River Square, 14 Main Road
- Contact: 028 284 9640
The Restaurant at Wildekrans Wine Estate elevates the country dining experience a bit with more experimental gourmet dishes served in a relaxed family environment. Reservations are recommended, as there is limited seating.
- Location: Wildekrans Wine Estate, R43, Bot River
- Contact: 028 284 9488
- Online: wildekrans.com
- Times: Wednesday – Sunday: Breakfast, 8am – 11am, Lunch, 12pm – 3:30pm | Friday Dinner: 6pm
Farro at Gabriëlskloof Wine Estate dishes up classic-meets-country style cooking from its seasonally led a la carte menu that puts the region’s produce on a pedestal.
- Location: Gabriëlskloof Wine Estate, R43, Bot River
- Contact: 028 284 9865
- Online: gabrielskloof.co.za
- Times: Summer: Monday – Sunday, 12pm – 3pm | Winter: Thursday – Sunday, 12pm – 3pm
Established 17 years ago by Luke Cornell, a renowned animal trainer, Cornellskop Animal Sanctuary invites visitors to embrace extraordinary encounters with rescued wildlife such as wild dogs, emu, cheetahs, lions and meerkats.
- Location: Van Der Stel Pass Road, Bot River
- Contact: 076 564 6961
- Online: cornellskop.co.za
- Times: Monday – Sunday, 8:30am – 4:30pm
Houw Hoek Farm Stall is best known for its incredible homemade pies, but it also carries an array of treats, including biscuits and cakes, freshly baked bread, local wines and baskets brimming with fruits and vegetables sourced directly from the farms of the Elgin Valley.
- Location: N2 National Road, Elgin, Grabouw
- Contact: 028 284 9015 | [email protected]
- Times: Monday – Sunday, 7:30am – 5:30pm
What began as two waggons along the N2 selling homemade goods blossomed into Dassiesfontein, now a bustling farm stall and family restaurant that specialises in homemade South African cuisine. The essential road trip stop, complete with resident donkeys, offers a diverse range of locally sourced products from the Overberg region.
- Location: Cnr of Waboomskloof Road and N2, between Bot River and Caledon
- Contact: 028 214 1475
- Times: Monday – Sunday, 8:30am – 5:30pm
Details:
- Location: Compagnes Drift Farm, Bot River
- Contact: 028 284 9194 | info@beaumont.co.za
- Online: beaumont.co.za | @beaumontwines
- Times: Monday – Friday, 9am – 4:30pm | Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays, 10am – 3pm
Also read:
An escape into the rugged landscape of Bot River with Copia Eco Cabins
Picture: Beaumont Family Wines / Facebook
