If you’re curious about fine dining, begin with Protégé – one of La Colombe‘s ventures that operates deliciously under the guidance of Scot Kirton (former Eat Out Chef of the Year).
‘Scot is proud to be part of the process of recognising young talented chefs and giving them the opportunity to put themselves on the map.’ In keeping with this, the restaurant is aptly named Protégé and Zane Soutar, who has worked closely with Kirton and James Gaag for many years, heads the kitchen team.
‘I could not be prouder of having Zane lead the team. He has given me so much over the years and now it’s time for me to help him achieve his dreams,’ says Kirton.
The restaurant is located on Huguenot Street in Franschhoek, neighbouring Tuk Tuk Microbrewery. You’ll need a landmark, as Protégé is somewhat hidden. But the treasure hunt and hour-long drive from the city are worth it.
Step out of the rain and into the elegantly refined dining area, where warm wooden tables and subtle bursts of sage green echo the outdoors, which is always on display thanks to wrap-around windows that look onto the courtyard beyond – a wonderful place to eat in summer, no doubt.
In winter, you’ll be quite comfortable inside, where the fire is always roaring and the kitchen is in clear view. It – the kitchen – is framed by a cube-shaped bar, where a walk-in diner found a seat to enjoy Protégé’s lunch menu … and a culinary performance.
No matter where you sit, you’ll be treated to a real-life look at the team in action. They operate in near silence, with only the occasional ‘heard’ uttered between called-out orders. Swear words and flying steaks are not prerequisites to a fine meal, you’ll discover. Here, there is absolute calm and order.
This is La Colombe Collections’ take on ‘casual fine dining’. Be assured, the experience comes with all the bells and whistles and the most tentative service; only you’ll feel more comfortable arriving in jeans (or with rain-soaked hair). Families are welcome here, and, believe it or not, it’s not unlikely to spot a roaming toddler.
Protégé balances finesse with familiarity beautifully, a concept that’s mirrored on the menu. The four-course winter lunch offering celebrates this ethos, serving flavours from South Africa to the Middle East to Asia. You’ll be presented with ingredients that you know and some that you might not. The end result, however, demands little contemplation. Everything is in-your-face delicious.
The lunch special is R595 per person, accompanied by a wine flight for an additional R400.
The holy grail of bread courses
You’ll begin with a bread course so delicious it’s almost guaranteed to start a table battle for the last slice of sourdough, which has been charred to perfection and is served with confit garlic, plump olives, biltong and butter – a vessel for some more garlic (in the form of a robust wild garlic oil). Save the beef tataki for last: umami bombs served on a cushion, and rightfully so because they are supreme.
After being blown away by bread, you’ll be pleased to realise that your official four courses are still to come.
On your marks
Next is Tuna, Miso Aubergine, Ssamjang or Springbok, Chicken Liver Parfait, Jalapeño. The tuna makes for a seamless transition from the tataki. Hidden beneath a delicate-as-lace sesame tuiles, you’ll uncover fresh cubes and seared slithers of fish, accompanied by more umami, that packs punches from the spicy, fermented ssamjang base, creamier than kewpie mayo and sweet miso magic. Fresh apple and fragments of shattered tuiles deliver all the necessary crunch.
Begin again
When fine dining, you might not expect to roll up your sleeves and tuck into a dish with your fingers, which is what makes the next course that much more fun.
Protégé’s play on KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) is an experience. Diners are presented with a bundle of wings glazed so gorgeously that light reflects off them. You might, perhaps, wonder where the ‘fried’ part of this dish is. After a vibrant green coriander buttermilk is poured into your bowl, you’ll find out. The batter is so light that it’s invisible to the naked eye. But it’s there and is truly ‘finger-licking good’. Though spicy, the heat level is mild, allowing you to lap up every morsel without breaking a sweat – and then resist the urge to lick remnants of sauce.
If finger food isn’t up your alley, the Spiced Squid, Prawn, Muhammara, Salsa Macha beckons.
Light as lamb
Peeking into the kitchen between courses, you’ll notice a rack of lamb rotating over open coals. The Coal Roast Lamb Chop, Smoked Tomato, Salsa Verde is near impossible to resist on a winter’s day, especially when paired with Taaibosch’s ‘Crescendo’ Red Blend (2019). The delivery gives substance to the overworked ‘melt-in-your-mouth’ phrase. Not your grandma’s Sunday roast, this version elevates classic combinations – think wholegrain mustard and sweet onion – with expert execution and a few life-giving twists, such as a deeply savoury, welcomely sharp jus.
If not lamb, Kerala Kingklip, Tandoori, Coriander, Labneh, Sultana or Purdon Wagyu Sirloin, Porcini, Smoked Pomme Puree (120 grams, R300 supplement).
Far from least
To end this odyssey, you have a sweet selection between Artisnal Bon Bons (lemon, tiramisu and salted caramel); Chocolate, Pumpkin, Orange or Baked Camembert, Garlic Truffle.
Something extra
Optional extras include Asian-style Saldanha Bay Oysters (three for R120) and spiced edamame (R95).
Protégé’s winter lunch special:
- Cost: R595 per person, four courses (Monday to Sunday, lunch only, vegetarian menu available)
- Location: 18 Huguenot Street, Franschhoek
- Bookings: dineplan | 021 492 4048
- More information: protege.restaurant
Also read:
La Colombe named as one of the best restaurants in the world
Picture: Zanephyn Keyser
