The Happiest Place on Earth
Midway between Franschhoek and Paarl, a magical microcosm weaves together the essence of a matchless hotel and a bustling farm. Robyn Simpson unearths the best of both at Babylonstoren.
Part wholesome hideaway and part working farm, Babylonstoren is visited by people from around the world longing to see the enchanting grounds, with even Capetonians making the trip to the Winelands – a testament to its magnificence.
Upon arrival, you’ll likely be met with the irresistible inclination to wander and hastily capture as much of the farm as possible. An impossible task, the best of this revered spot is saved for those who stay a while.
With time on your side, you can dive deeper and uncover the elements that reveal themselves slowly as your soul settles and your mind quietens. It is in this stillness that you might feel the farm’s vivid energy and deep spiritual aura, which are constantly bubbling beneath the surface.
This is the beginning of a radical grounding journey, where rich history collides with the spirit of unhurried nature to fortify what might just be the happiest place on Earth.
Genesis: The Garden
Babylonstoren, under the ownership of Karen Roos and Koos Bekker, opened to the public in 2010 and, in just over a decade, has become one of the Cape’s brightest stars. The farm’s growth has been exponential, fuelled by a relentless pursuit of innovation and prosperity. Yet still, it is deeply attached to rich historical roots, resulting in a uniquely layered experience. The past, present and future somehow feel simultaneous, coexisting in tandem to formulate a realm where mere mortals can experience those things usually reserved for the divine.
A timeless, weightless atmosphere awaits, where possibilities appear endless and limitations are nipped in the bud. Where to begin this ethereal journey, you might be wondering? In the garden, which is very much reminiscent of an earthly Eden. Here, among the guava trees and salad leaves, is a fabulous way to not only get your bearings but also peel back the first layer of the farm and travel a little deeper under Babylonstoren’s skin.
What you see today is the brainchild of famed architect Patrice Taravella. ‘He is remarkable in that he really understands the movement of people: how to make a garden hold you and calm you down,’ says Karen. You’ll find yourself floating through pathways and over bridges, indulging in frequent breaks to learn something new or delight your senses.
Sink your teeth into a freshly picked guava or nibble on a fallen carob pod. The Healing Garden invites tranquility, while the Karoo Succulent House showcases the unique beauty of arid plants from that region. The one-hectare Kitchen Garden, also known as the Moestuin, flourishes with an assortment of seasonal vegetables, while the Spice House thrives with tropical plant species. The Spice House can be booked for private lunches and events.
An hour-long garden tour is the perfect introduction to the farm. It begins at the bakery. Keep an eye out for Ernst, a botanical garden guru, who will likely be surrounded by chickens and a turkey or two. If not Ernst, one of Babylonstoren’s expert staff members, all of whom bear bright smiles and clear name badges, will show you around.
You’ll be introduced to the land with a history lesson, which dates back to 1692, when Governor Simon van der Stel granted the free burgher Pieter van der Byl a piece of land at the foot of a conical hill. The tour conveniently ends at the Garden Restaurant, where you can order a plate that celebrates all you have experienced on the ground. You’ll find that the knowledge you harvest in the garden echoes in all the abundant offerings Babylonstoren has curated.
Though heavenly, no fruit is forbidden in this garden. ‘There are no rules,’ said Ernst. Babylonstoren has been created for pure pleasure. The grass is there to be walked on and the fruit is there to be plucked and tasted. Everything is geared towards complete sensory satisfaction… and fun.
Babylonstoren has a plethora of farm tours to embark on. For hotel guests, they are all included in your stay.
Take A Tour
Mountain Drive
For guests who stay two nights or longer. 2pm and 4pm in winter and at 3pm and 5pm
in summer.
Bread Baking
Flour it up with a master baker every morning at 11am.
Essential Oil Tour
Learn about the steam distillation method used to extract essential oils from plants. Start at reception at 11.30am on weekdays.
Farm Walk
Daily guided farm walk before breakfast.
Water Buffalo Tour to Rietvlei
An early-morning visit to the lower part of the farm, where the more than 100 water buffalo graze and bathe. Witness the daily milking process and join in feeding the calves. After the tour, enjoy mozzarella, yoghurt, and butter made from water buffalo milk at Babel breakfast or a scoop of water buffalo gelato in the Gelato Room.
Guided Cellar Tour
Head underground to experience Babylonstoren’s grape-to-bottle process. Tastings and snacks
are included. Tours start at 10am, 1pm and 4pm daily.
The Story of Wine Museum
A visual documentary of the history and cultivation of wine. Open daily.
Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar Tours
Witness the process and taste along the way. Tours take place at 11am, 1pm and 3pm daily.
Babylonstoren Balance
A good stretch and breathing session in the garden. Mondays –Fridays from 8am–9am, meet at reception.
Activities for Young Guests
Feed the donkeys, collect eggs and help harvest fruit and vegetables from the garden, especially for the breakfast table. Children are also welcome to help bakers knead and bake delicious farm breads.
Harvest Fruit and Vegetables
Join the chefs every day to harvest fruit and vegetables for the restaurants.
The Dam
Canoe (at your own leisure) or try your hand at fly fishing at the onsite dam. You can cook your catch in your cottage or ask one of the chefs to prepare it for you at your restaurant of choice.
For Special Seasonal Workshops: babylonstoren.com/workshops
There are select tours open for the public to enjoy. Explore options and bookings online. Both guests and day visitors are also welcome at the spa.
The Cream Of The Crop
Unlike most working farms dedicated to the mass production of a single crop, Babylonstoren’s sustainable approach celebrates variety. Hectares of land, adorned with fruits and flowers, vegetables and spices, stretch from the main grounds towards the Simonsberg mountains. Pretty pathways transition into a wilder landscape, where fynbos and other indigenous delights grow freely.
In contemporary discourse, expressions such as ‘farm to fork’ and ‘free range’ have become commonplace, often losing their precise significance. However, Babylonstoren gives these phrases new life and truth. From edibles to essential oils, everything is transparently showcased, encouraging an intimate affair with the fruits of the land. This philosophy applies to everything harvested: grape to bottle, olive to oil, and so on.
‘Farm to fork’ is fully actualised at each Babylonstoren eatery: The Greenhouse, Old Bakery and Babel, where you’ll always enjoy the garden’s seasonal offerings. Dinner at Babel is something to savour. The three-course menu includes various proteins and sides, perfect for sharing, and sharing is advised. The portions are more than generous; they are huge. A protein for yourself and sides to share is a delicious strategy. Pray that when you visit, the whole-roasted sweet potato, complete with almond hummus and lemon, is on the menu. It’s spectacular. As is the delicate vegetable broth to start, the Glen Oaks pork, served on the bone, with quince and hyssop, and the baked water buffalo yoghurt with pomegranate and rosemary meringue for dessert.
Remember, the menu changes with the seasons and with what’s available from the garden. Unchanging, however, is that every meal at Babylonstoren is a celebration of the farm’s harvest.
Babylonstoren recently celebrated its official opening of the Garden Shop, Gelateria and Coffee Roastery. Be sure to get yourself a cuppa and an ice cream sandwich before you leave.
You Ain’t Seen Nothing Yet
Visiting for the day to explore the gardens, enjoy a lunch at one of the on-site restaurants or perhaps embark on a tour is enough to whet your appetite. It’s a delicious amuse-bouche before a main meal. As Kobus said on an evening farm drive, exclusive to staying guests, ‘You ain’t seen nothing yet’.
Linger Longer
Over time, it is not only the produce that has expanded, where avocados and dragon fruits have made an entrance or that way has been made for blood oranges to meet popular demand; The accommodation offerings are ever-evolving.
Among these abodes, the venerable Cape Dutch Manor House stands as a testament to history, with its origins dating back to the year 1777. Today, it stands beautifully restored with added contemporary flair – just enough to not impose on the bones of the place, which include a traditional farm kitchen with an old wood-burning stove.
Then there’s the Farm Hotel, the Garden Cottages and the Farmhouse Suites. A short distance from the heart of the farm, you’ll find the newest accommodations, the Fynbos Cottages and the Fynbos Family House.
The Fynbos Cottages are unique in that they are positioned a few hundred metres from the main grounds. Their location, coupled with the Cape’s wild fynbos landscape, vineyards and mountain views, makes this the perfect secluded escape.
Within this retreat, Babylonstoren’s artful fusion of antiquity and innovation continues to shine. The cottages are framed by floor-to-ceiling windows that encase the heart of the home – the kitchen. Amenities for self-catering are included, offering guests the opportunity to experiment with goodies purchased from the farm shop or foraged throughout the day’s adventures.
Throughout, Oregon pine floors lay the foundation, while the decor, with its organic tones and textures, enhances the innate beauty of the surroundings. Each room becomes a testament to thoughtful design.
The lounge, bedroom, and en-suite bathroom, each with its own distinctive character, feature elements that elevate the sensory experience. A wooden bookshelf, exuding warmth and inviting contemplation, graces the lounge. In the en-suite bathroom, a Chinese bath and delicate gold finishes provide a striking contrast against the pristine white backdrop. Meanwhile, the bedroom unveils a sanctuary of slumber, where a four-poster bed beckons and electronic skylights grant access to the celestial canopy above.
Opposite the kitchen, beyond the expanse of the lounge, lies a revelation awaiting discovery. As the double doors swing open, they unveil a captivating vista stretching across the entirety of the farm. A sight to behold, particularly at dusk and dawn. Thoughtfully placed pathways invite unhindered exploration. You may chance upon a pond where there’s a bench to sit and enjoy the daily sky shows, accompanied by resident ducks that frequently visit. If you’re in Cottage 34, this enchanting scene will be on your doorstep. To get to dinner faster, your cottage is complete with bicycles and a golf cart.
Stay and Play
At Babylonstoren, the boundaries of exploration are delightfully dissolved. Pools and lawns, lodgings and a splendid spa call on weathered souls. Accompanied by the gentle rustle of donkeys wearing their winter coats and harmonious melodies emanating from contented farm animals, your imagination takes flight.
The property unveils itself as a playground where adults and children alike can surrender to the enchantment of discovery. Within this haven of wholesomeness, joy manifests in its purest form, becoming the ultimate souvenir to be cherished.
The Details
- Location: Babylonstoren, Klapmuts Simondium Road, Simondium
- Contact: 021 863 3852; [email protected]
- Accommodation Rates, Dates and Details: babylonstoren.com
- Shop: Fresh produce and Babylonstoren products can be purchased online and delivered to your door.
- Farm entrance fee: R100
Also read:
Babylonstoren’s 1257kg Chianina ox supplies 1.6km of boerewors
Pictures: Supplied