Many people come out of the Huguenot Tunnel and race down the N1 in their hurry to get to Cape Town. Paarl, or Die Pêrel (the pearl) as it is known in Afrikaans, lies forgotten.
But you’d be the poorer for passing the turn-off.
It’s a pretty town, a mix of old and new, inextricably tied to the birth of Afrikaans. Old Paarl is in the centre of the town, just waiting to be walked.
Also read: A handy guide to some seriously good restaurants in Paarl
Food and Wine
M.O.M Café
For coffee and patisserie, head to M.O.M Café – that is Meals on Main – the public-facing aspect to the Hurst Campus of the Hurst Master Culinary School.
The students get practical, hands-on training through baking, cooking and serving at the café. This means they really have to know what they’re doing, and indeed the coffee is very good, the cakes tantalising.
You can also stock up on wholesome meals to take home.
The Bistro at Brookdale
For lunch, you can’t go wrong with The Bistro at Brookdale. Stop first at The Tasting Room to sample the wines of effervescent young winemaker, Kiara Scott Farmer. She has under her hand made a rosé, Serendipity, that will have you asking for a second taste, and then a third.
Her Mason Road GSM is another excellent wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Petit Syrah.
At the Bistro, Executive Chef Gary Coetzee serves a small menu of delicious food. So delicious, in fact, that patrons keep returning. Often for the same dish.
If it’s warm, grab a table on the wide terrace overlooking the vineyards.
‘The seasonal menu was created to offer something for every taste,’ says the chef, who describes the style of the food as ‘chic bistro’. Produce is sourced locally to provide a conscious balance of choice for meat lovers and vegetarians.
Try the char-grilled baby gem lettuce with pickled red onion, avocado, croutons, capers, wakame and cashew dressing for an unusual way to eat your greens.
Also read: The Bistro and Tasting Room at Brookdale Estate offers the best of Paarl
Clay Café
Clay Café Paarl was recently opened in a 300-year-old homestead on the Groot Parys Estate. The food is thoughtful, considered and extremely tasty. The menu covers it all, from breakfasts and burgers to salads and cakes.
Vegans, vegetarians and gluten-free are welcome. The inimitable Tamsin Snyman is at the helm, and a deli and wine boutique are opening soon.
Have a glass of CC or a coffee, choose your bisque (there are about 150 models to choose from, ranging in price from R50 to R180) and your paints, and get creating over brunch.
Also read: Clay Cafe Paarl: Unleash your artistic side in picturesque vineyards
KWV
Paarl is synonymous with KWV, the powerful wine farmers’ co-operative founded in 1918. Take a turn past the KWV Emporium for a brandy and chocolate tasting, starting with a five-year-old and working your way up to a 20-year-old.
There are also wine tastings and gin tastings, and even a children’s tasting pairing. The blind, vertical tasting of three vintages of the flagship, The Mentors Perold, is a new addition.
The emporium often has good specials, so you may want to pick up a few bottles for your cupboard.
Cape {town} Etc discount: Indulge in a unique wine-tasting and safari game viewer experience for two with a wine safari tour, courtesy of Wines of Paarl for R450 (valued at R900). Get it here.
Noop
Noop at 127 Main Road is in the heart of Old Paarl. It’s housed in a heritage building with broekie lace, sash windows and wooden floors.
The food is uncomplicated, unpretentious and good.
The guiding principle is ‘Keep it fresh, keep it local, keep it simple’.
Noop is a very warm, welcoming and friendly neighbourhood eatery that has taken the staples up a notch. The homemade wild mushroom ravioli was very well-received.
There is also an incredibly comprehensive wine list, as one would expect at a Winelands restaurant.
Things to do
Walking Tour
Tour guide Hybré van Niekerk is a living history book. On a guided walk of the old town, her stories are spellbinding. She tells you about the town, its characters and buildings, architecture, and importantly, its place in the history of Afrikaans, believed to be the world’s youngest language.
The godfather of the language is widely agreed to be Arnoldus Pannavis, a Dutch immigrant.
In 1875, he was one of the founders of Genootskap van Regte Afrikaners (Society of True Afrikaners). But Afrikaans only became a registered language in 1925.
Hybré’s tours take between two and two and a half hours, but she has such a wealth of knowledge, you could easily be entertained all day.
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Zomerlust Boutique Hotel
At Zomerlust Boutique Hotel, you can take a drink at the basement pub, Die Kraan (the tap). The homestead was once owned by Jacob Isaac de Villiers, whose father, Abraham Pieter de Villiers, started the PaarlseWijn and BrandewijnMaatschappij in 1856.
The elegant home was across the street from the cellar – today it is a car dealership – and a copper pipe ran under the road to his study in the basement of his house. It has a tap at the end, for him to pour himself a glass of brandy whenever he felt the urge.
De Villiers’ tap is still there, though now the brandy has stopped flowing across the road.
Paarl Arboretum
Another excellent spot for a walk is the Arboretum, where the weekly Park Run also takes place. It runs along the Berg River, and is stocked with trees and green spaces.
Taal Monument
The imposing Taal Monument stands on Paarl Rock, a tribute to all the strands of language that make up Afrikaans – European, Asian, African. It was designed by architect, Jan van Wijk, and built between 1972 and 1974.
There is a museum that traces the history of Afrikaans, with an interesting project of common words derived from other languages hanging from the roof.
From here, it’s a short walk up to the monument itself. It’s a peaceful place, with splendid views across the Winelands, planted up with sweet-smelling fynbos.
It’s a popular spot for concerts, picnics and star-gazing.
There is also a coffee shop.
Free guided tours are available from Mondays to Fridays – weekends and public holidays only with a pre-booking for a minimum of 20 people. There are also free information brochures and audio guides available in Afrikaans, English, Xhosa, French, Dutch and German.
The monument’s symbolism is highlighted in 22 languages.
Incidentally, the structure, with its sails and water, was intended as a piece of public art, not as a sombre monument.
The Alpaca Loom
You can feed the alpacas at The Alpaca Loom, tour the farm and learn about the fine wool these sweet animals produce.
On sale are scarves, beanies, blankets and socks. There is also a petting zoo (even some devilish lamas), making it a delight for children. R20 gets you entry for an entire day.
Adding to the allure is a playground. Try not to get spat on, though.
Also read: The Alpaca Loom: Paarl’s fluffiest hidden gem for the whole family to enjoy
Dalewood Fromage
Milk for Dalewood Fromage cheeses comes exclusively from the brown Jersey cows that roam nutrient-dense pastures farmed using regenerative practices. Here, cheeses of all delicious variety are made by hand, from the nutty hard cheese that is Huguenot to the sublime creaminess of the Lanquedoc.
Also on sale is milk, cream, butter, yoghurt and Jersey feta, jams and jellies, as well as a load of cheese accessories, such as brie knives. Yes, there is a knife just for brie.
If you can’t get there, the online shop, Kaas Club, is always open.
Drakenstein Correctional Centre
Nelson Mandela spent the last 14 months of his incarceration at Drakenstein Correctional Centre, called Victor Verster Prison at the time. It was from here that he walked a free man, on 11 February 1990.
A statue of Mandela, fist held aloft, was erected to mark this at the entrance, where he took his first steps outside prison.
He had lived in a private house inside the prison compound. That house has been declared a South African National Heritage Site, but is closed for restoration.
Take a look:
For those that enjoy aesthetic visuals, we’ve compiled the ultimate guide of things to do in Paarl, Instagram reel edition:
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Written by Lorraine Kearney
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Picture: Visit Paarl / Facebook
